Story
Nordic Approach began working with Wildan back in 2019 on small volume fermentation experiments. In 2020 they scaled up the volumes of the successful fermentation techniques and so they did again for 2021, leaving only those projects that resulted in the best cup profile. The main goal is to develop processing techniques that can be replicated consistently over time, on scale, without adding crazy production costs.
The cherry for this lot, which will be a mix of varieties, is farmed by some selected outgrowers located in West Java, locally called Sunda. These farms sit at altitudes of 1300 - 1500 masl.
The coffees are processed at Frinsa Estate, their wet mill is located at 1400 masl and has a ventilated storage space and a dry mill. This means they are in full control of their product from harvest to grading, sorting and shipment. The guys at Frinsa really know how to process and even though the climate is working against drying it this way they find a way and get clean delicious profiles.
Java Frinsa Estate
Wildan Mustofa and his wife Atieq Mustikaningtyas started their first coffee project in Sindangkerta, Weninggalih area in 2010. This later became the main growing area at his farm Java Frinsa Estate. Since the first year of production, Wildan has aimed to focus on quality which requires meticulous attention and processes. While the majority of Indonesian producers are doing the wet hulled coffees, even for specialty, Wildan is focusing on the fully washed. Besides the quality, and social and economic impact for the community, we believe the coffee project also has long term benefits for water conservation and reforestation.
Frinsa Estate is located in West Java, locally called Sunda. They have a wet mill as well as a well ventilated storage space and a dry mill. All located at 1400 masl altitude. This means they have full control over their product from harvest, over grading to sorting and shipment. Frinsa Estate has 6 main growing plots spread out in the area. And they buy cherries from a few selected outgrower in the surroundings of the Estate.
Most of the coffees are fully washed but they do some wet hulled and naturals, mainly for the local market. Their coffees are always separated in lots by field location, cultivar, and date of picking. The parchment is then stored in plastic bags with LDPE liners. Through a cooperation with the coffee research centre they have been planting a lot of other different unknown cultivars, all separated by blocks in the farm. As the farm and the trees are still very young nobody knows how the flavour profile for many of these trees will come out. In addition to their own coffee production they also process coffee for the local smallholders (outgrowers), generally separated by area.
Harvest takes place from May to September, with the main harvest from June- August. The coffees are picked and then hand sorted for unripe and diseased cherries.
Processing
Washed coffees are dry fermented in small tanks 15-18 hours before they are rinsed and soaked under water for another 10-12 hours and washed under clean water.
Wildan also works with different fermentation techniques. He writes, "we do lactic fermentation using the lactobacillus culture. For the natural process, the cherries are washed to remove dirt and microbial contamination from the surface of the cherry skin, after cleaning, the lactobacillus culture is added to the cherries which are then put into plastic bags or plastic barrels and fermented anaerobically. The bags / barrels are rotated in the morning and evening and the gas is released, then the container is closed for 2 or 3 days. After fermentation the cherries are dried on raised beds. Coffee fermented by lactic method has a complex, mild and smooth character with malic acidity. We also have a fermentation technique with Saccharomyces cerevisiae which is used in natural and honey processing. Coffees are processed according to the usual method for several days until the water content reaches around 25-30%. The saccharomyces culture is then applied and the cherries are put in a closed sack for 36 hours. After this the cherries return to the drying bed to dry in the sun. This coffee is fermented with saccharomyces, if the time is short, the sweetness is very strong, the texture becomes more syrupy and the cup is more complex.Both of these fermentation techniques can be done together. For example, natural coffee can first be fermented lactically, then dried in the sun, then fermented again with saccharomyces, then dried again until dry."
Frinsa mainly dries on the patios, but are already investing in more drying tables for the future.Currently most of the coffees are pre dried on beds for a day or two in green houses and then transferred to the patio. Drying can take 14-20 days, depending on the rain during the drying period.